Project Break: Pool Table Build
- Brandon Khan
- Dec 8, 2020
- 5 min read
Updated: Dec 28, 2020
What do you do when you are finding ways to maintain your sanity during the Covid-19 pandemic? You build a pool table
Welcome everyone! This is a project I was really excited to pursue. During the covid-19 pandemic I found recreational items were in high demand. Everyone was installing pools, purchasing bikes & outdoor equipment and interestingly enough game room items were a hot ticket as well. While casually browsing through pool tables I found that I wasn't able to find one I liked for the price I liked. So, I decided to take on the challenge of building one from scratch.
My objective and design principle was to build a pool table that:
Used as much scrap wood I had available
Is as inexpensive as possible
Is designed to be disassembled and moved easily
I started by creating a 3D model of what I wanted my pool table to look like. This was to make sure my dimensions were consistent and also the geometry, especially for the rail and the table top, was uniform.
Once I finalized my design, it was time to start building
“If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door” - Milton Berle
The first step in the build process was to make the legs of the table.
I started with using existing wood I had lying around in my garage. I was lucky because the height of the boards was only 0.5" off from my design. This step involved cutting the boards to the right width, gluing & nailing, edge banding and then sanding it with 220 grit paper, putting on a coat of pre-stain conditioner and then finally 2 coats of stain.
Next, I built out a quick frame using 2x3 framing lumber. Maybe next time I might use MDF to avoid the warping of the wood due to humidity and temperature changes it would experience in the basement of on Ontario residence. This material was chosen however to abide by my second design principle (as inexpensive as possible).
First Part of the Assembly
The frame (formally known as the cabinet) was secured to the legs using two 5/16x3-inch hex-head bolts per leg. This is to ensure its nice and sturdy and can support the weight of the materials that rest on the frame.
Traditionally, pool table surfaces are made of slate however, MDF is a great alternative; its lighter and cheaper but you do sacrifice a bit of longevity. For this pool table I used 3/4" thick MDF to avoid any bending. MDF is flexible and we want to avoid an uneven playing surface.
I used wood fill to fix any dents and imperfections in the surface. I then added additional supports on the legs on the long sides of the tables. I spent roughly 1.5-2 hours levelling the surface. This was a bit tedious but this is not the place to cut corners. A levelled surface cannot be compromised.
The Tough Stuff - The Rails
Making the rails was the trickiest part because of its specific geometry. This shape accommodates the top curtain, feather-strip and the bumper. To achieve this I ran it through the table saw many times....many many times, changing the saws height and angle each time. After a few hours, I got the exact shape I wanted.
The rails were then cut to size to fit their respective part of on the table. The entrance angles were also cut for the corner and side pockets to meet the standardized throat and mouth sizes. Bolt holes were drilled (1/4"), 3 hole per rail to correct for any warping and to make sure the rail is secured to the table.
After the rails were cut to size, the next step was to affix the K66 bumper. This was done by using LePage cement to bond the bumper onto the rail. I used painters tape to hold it in place momentarily while the glue dried. I let the glue dry for about 24 hours after which I removed the tape, and using a sharp knife I cut the ends of the bumper off to the correct correct length and angles. I then glued the cushion facing on the ends and trimmed off the excess so the facings were the exact shape they covered. I purchased both the K66 bumper and the cushions through Amazon.
As you can see, because of the unorthodox geometry of the rails, I affixed temporary scrap pieces of wood at the ends to help hold in the feather strip and secure the felt on the top side. These scrap pieces would later be removed and replaced with the top faces of the pool table.
Each rail was felted and secured with a 1/4" feather strip and 1/2" staples. The feather strip I cut myself via the table saw from the scraps left over from the rail cuts.
Felting a pool table and the rails were a new skill for me, thankfully Take A Break Spas and Billiards on YouTube provides a fantastic tutorial
The felting of the table took some times because of the repetitive pulling, stretching & stapling of the felt. The key here was to pull in the direction of the pockets so there was enough slack so that when the felt was cut to shape around the pockets there was enough felt to wrap under the table. I purchased the felt through Amazon.
A quick trick: cut a rectangular strip of felt and staple it on the pocket. This ensures that if there isn't enough felt around the pocket they could be at least covered. It also increases the longevity of the pockets & felt in that area.
The bolt holes were bored for the rails and 1/4x2-inch bolts were used to secure the rails to the table. It was important to me to make sure the rails were secure because of all the bombardment it will experience from the billiard balls.
Now was the time for the finishing pieces, included the top & side curtains. Here I used 1/2" maple. These pieces were cut, sanded, edge banded, conditioned and stained. I clamped the top pieces onto the rail to make sure the cuts for the pockets lined up perfectly.
Once the top surfaces and side curtains finished drying it was time for the final assembly. Corner braces and L-brackets were used to put everything together. Because the thickness of the wood used was 1/2", I needed to make sure the screws I used to hold the pieces in place was small enough to not pierce through the wood (That would be very disappointing), but big enough to ensure the pieces were secure. Here I used 3/8" screws which worked perfectly. After the top and side surfaces went on I installed the pocket liners which I purchased from F.G. Bradley's.
And finally, here it is after 4 weeks of work, the final product:
